London’s food scene has a habit of circling back on itself, but every now and then something lands that feels familiar in all the right ways without being predictable. Tavern is exactly that. From the team behind Restaurant St Barts and the dearly departed Nest, it leans into the idea of a British bistro with just enough polish to feel special, but not so much that it forgets to have a good time.
The space plays into that mood effortlessly. Think soft lighting, white tablecloths that don’t feel intimidating, and shelves lined with bits and pieces that give it a lived-in charm. It’s less countryside pub, more London’s idealised version of one, where everything looks casually perfect.
The menu follows suit. It’s rooted in British cooking, but it’s not precious about it. There’s a looseness here that makes the whole experience feel more relaxed, even when the cooking is clearly very considered. Snacks are where things kick off, and they set the tone quickly. The chunion puffs are gone in seconds, all flaky pastry and rich, savoury filling. Smoked cod’s roe comes with oversized pig skin crackers, unapologetically indulgent and impossible to stop eating.
Then there’s the sausage, which really shouldn’t work as well as it does. Pork and cuttlefish come together in a way that’s both meaty and slightly briny, with a squid ink mustard adding just the right amount of punch. It’s clever without feeling complicated.
Lighter dishes hold their own. Sweet Cornish crab with tomatoes keeps things fresh, while asparagus with brown butter hollandaise and cured egg yolk hits that perfect balance between rich and delicate.
The tandoori quail is a standout, sitting in a deeply flavoured sauce that feels comforting rather than heavy. Paired with a bowl of crisp, addictive chips, it’s the kind of dish that makes you slow down just enough to enjoy it properly.
Tavern feels confident without trying too hard. It’s thoughtful, a little playful, and exactly the sort of place that stays on your mind long after you’ve left.
Tavern
374 – 378 Old Street
London
EC1V 9LT
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